Some more time in Marrakech

When we got back to the ryad, we were again greeted by Morad with a warm smile and hot mint tea. We were so happy to be back. We arranged to have dinner cooked for us that night at the ryad and it turned out to be the best decision we made in Morocco. The meal was incredible. We didn't quite know what we'd get because we phoned in the dinner request from the Sahara and figured there was a lot lost in translation, but Alison did a great job of communicating 'cooked vegetables and chicken.'

The meal was by far the best in Morocco. The meal began with broiled eggplant with cheese - the best eggplant I've ever had, anywhere. Then we had a blanched zucchini-like squash with garlic and mint, and roasted red peppers. The entree was, of course, tagine chicken. And we even had white wine with dinner! It was the perfect segue from rough Sahara experience to the comforts of Marrakech.

The next day we hit the markets to explore and collect souvenirs. Unlike US markets where vendors have portable stands, these vendors have closet sized stores that pour out onto the narrow crooked streets. Sometimes we could only squeeze through single file. Overall, we were pleasantly surprised with how NOT pushy the vendors were. Everything we read and heard from friends made us think we'd be followed, nagged, annoyed, and even grabbed. Couldn't have been further from the truth. We did hear a chorus of 'Welcome! Have a look!' as we walked by, but that was as pushy as it got. Other funny stuff we heard includes: 'no money no honey' and 'wow' and 'nice' and 'fish and chips.' Those phrases were mostly spoken by giggly 15 year old guys.

Our negotiation professors would be proud. We got some excellent deals. I know I did especially well on one item for John because the friendly, jovial man I began bargaining with became an annoyed, 'get out of here' kind of person by the time money and goods were exchanged.

By 11 am, the markets were closing because it was holy day, and we began our attempt at getting back to the ryad. After an hour of futile wandering, we took a kid up on his offer to lead us home (for a price, of course). We were so incredibly turned around and disorientated that when he left us about a block from the main intersection near our ryad (he couldn't take us all the way because the police), we managed to get lost again. It didn't help that he pointed right and said left. About 10 minutes later, we crossed paths with our navigator again, enjoying ice cream purchased with his service fee. he must have taken pity on us because this time he took us the whole way to the intersection.

Hungry now, we decided to get some lunch before heading back to the ryad. Mistake #1. We searched for the place Alison and I found a few days ago, but it was closed. Mistake #2. So we ate at a place like it. Mistake #3. When we got home, we didn't take a cipro quickly enough. Mistake #4. By later on in the day, all hopes of a nice dinner out in Marrakech on our last night were squashed. As Margaret's sister Elizabeth says, 'we had a case of the gurgly murgelies.' Except for Alison. Turns out, preventive cipro trumps reactive cipro. Thank goodness, however, Margaret and I did take it in enough time to escape the misery I suffered a few days prior.

By evening we were doing well enough to join our ryad's owner at his other ryad for cocktails. It was one of the most enjoyable evenings of the trip. He invited all his guests for wine, beer, olives, nuts, and conversation. About 12 of us lounged on pillows and mini chairs around a low table. About half spoke enough English for good conversation with us. We met Sophie, a 50 something photographer from Belgium, a French girl who just graduated from B School in France, her new boyfriend another ryad owner, and saw Franc again. We learned Franc (as in the guy who drove us from the airport to our ryad) was a very talented artist. We took a peek at some of his canvasses. I really liked them and would have tried to buy one if I wasn't so confident John would hate it!

We left for the airport the next morning, expecting Youssef (the previous night's server) to take us to the airport but to our surprise, Franc showed up instead. And Morad joined in on the ride, as well. I think they really enjoyed us. And so our Moroccan experience comes to a close. Back to Spain where we can have vegetables and dairy, brush our teeth with tap water, and hopefully avoid the gurgly murgelies.